Nestled in the Rocky Mountains, at a place where two rivers meet, lies the town of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. A town steeped in history and known as the home to of the world’s largest hot springs pool. The legends of the healing waters have drawn explorers and health seekers from around the world. The town, originally called “Defiance” was established in 1883 and consisted primarily of tents, rustic cabins, brothels, and saloons. A popular getaway for notorious characters such as Doc Holliday and Kid Curry, who are both are buried in the local cemetery.
In addition to it’s scenic location and history, Glenwood Springs is also a stopover along the route of one of the most beautiful train routes in America. The Amtrak California Zephyr runs from Chicago to San Francisco, with stops in big cities like Denver, Salt Lake City, Reno, and Sacramento. Glenwood Springs is a perfect stopover along the route. Here, we share details about our journey on the Zephyr and a guide to help you plan a stopover in the charming town of Glenwood Springs.
BOARDING AT DENVER’S UNION STATION
We arrived at the Denver Union Station an hour before boarding, allowing plenty of time to wander around this iconic station. This historic railroad station, first opened in 1881. If you enjoy taking photos, this station will have you snapping away. The interior is bright, spacious, and full of class. The station features plenty of seating, shops, and restaurants. There’s even a swanky little bar called “Terminal Bar”, located in an old ticketing office. And the outside, with the station’s Beaux-Arts design, illuminated sign, and open air train hall – well I could have spent all day taking photos if there wasn’t a train to be caught.
It took us a few minutes to find track 4, which was on the main level tracks across from the station. There was a sign for the boarding line where they scanned our ticket and directed us towards our coach class car. The conductor met us at the door, checked tickets, and assigned us seats on the upper level. We placed our suitcases on the lower level rack and took our backpacks with us to place in racks above our seats.
ONBOARD THE SCENIC CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR
Shortly after boarding, we decided to grab a table in the Observation Car (Sightseer Lounge). These seats tend to fill up quickly, so it’s wise to find a seat shortly after boarding. The train departed at 8:46 am, exactly on time.
The Conductor began with announcements, including a list of basic rules to ensure a pleasant journey for all. He explained the necessity for children to stay with their adult(s), for riders to keep shoes on in public spaces, and most importantly “to be kind and courteous” to others.
Shortly after announcements, the Assistant Conductor entered the Observation Car to let folks know they would need return to their assigned seat in two hours and allow other passengers a turn in the Observation Car. A very cool move. On one of the most scenic train routes in America, it seems only fair that everyone gets a chance to view the stunning scenery from the best spot on the train.
Eventually, the Denver city skyline became a faint site hovering in the distance. The landscape transitioned from suburban areas to vast alpine tundra. We began our ascent up into the rockies and through a long series of tunnels. The scenery became more rugged and wild as we wove through canyons and rocky hillsides. The sun was shining and the mood, in the Observation Car, was relaxed.
After two hours onboard, we followed our Assistant Conductor’s directions and returned to our seats. We were seated on the right side of the train, where we could see mostly steep rock walls outside the windows. Passengers on the left side of the car, on the other hand, had gorgeous views of the Colorado River. I grabbed my camera and wandered downstairs to snap a few photos from the train door window as we chugged along next to the river.
The train passed several groups of river rafters – a few who blessed the train by following the tradition of dropping their drawers and mooning the train as it sped by. The train passengers were giggling and pulling out phones to take videos and photos of the hilarious scene outside their windows.
The Conductor took time to announce important historical locations as we approached – narrating history related to tunnels, Donner Pass, and Glenwood Canyon. He also pointed out a small rustic cabin where Dwight D. Eisenhower spent summers with his family.
ARRIVING AT GLENWOOD SPRINGS STATION
We arrived at the Glenwood Springs train station around 2:36 pm – a timely arrival. Our hotel check-in wasn’t until 4pm, so we stored our bags with the hotel front desk, and grabbed a bite and a beer at the Glenwood Brew Pub.
LODGING ACCOMMODATIONS
- Hotel Maxwell Anderson – Our home base during our visit to Glenwood Springs, Hotel Maxwell Anderson is a beautiful, historic hotel, located across the road from the train station and close to restaurants and shopping. We’d unknowingly booked a “gallery room” and were surprised to find that instead of having a room inside the hotel, we had to walk outside, past the Brew Pub, and enter another hallway. The room windows faced directly out to the road, which meant we kept curtains drawn for privacy our entire stay The room and bed were comfortable enough. Next time around, however, we’ll be certain to book a room inside the main hotel.
- Hotel Colorado – Located across a pedestrian footbridge and about a 5-minute walk from the train station, Hotel Colorado is another great option for lodging. The Glenwood Hot Springs pools are directly across the street from the hotel. It’s definitely worth a visit to this gorgeous hotel and grounds even if you’re not booked for a stay. The hotel is full of historic photos and elegant vintage-style decor. Teddy Roosevelt, William Taft, and the “Unsinkable” Molly Brown are just a few of the famous guests who’ve stayed here.
- Glenwood Hot Springs Resort – This resort is home to the world’s largest hot springs pool. You’ll pay higher nightly rates to stay at the resort, with complementary access to resort amenities, including the hot springs pools, daily full hot breakfast, and the Poolside Grill and Athletic Club. Another historic location and great place to stay if you’re looking for more of a resort experience.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
- Riviera Supper Club and Scratch Kitchen – Serving up an eclectic mix of food offerings including salmon, duck, Beef Wellington, and Lasagna in addition to a variety of beers, wine, and mixed drinks. If you’re looking for something unique to eat, this place is perfect!
- The Pullman – Another restaurant offering a unique mix of food choices including Roasted Chicken, Braised Pulled Pork, and a yummy macaroni and cheese. They have a fun selection of cocktails to choose from, a cozy ambiance, and excellent service. It fills up fast, so you’ll want to make a reservation to dine here.
- Grind – A relaxed atmosphere with great seating options inside and out. The menu includes delicious burgers, fries, and beer cheese dip. Visitors can order milkshakes or a beverage of choice from the varied selection of beers and cocktails to accompany your meal.
- Doc Holliday’s Saloon and Restaurant – A classic old western saloon with good service and typical bar-type food – although, the Rocky Mountain Oysters were a unique offering! Football game was on, and it seemed to be mostly locals there rooting on their favorite teams. I imagine that they have more of a family atmosphere earlier in the day. The place was definitely worth checking out and a fun way to wind down with a beer, following a more melancholic visit to Doc Holliday’s Memorial at the Linwood Cemetery.
THINGS TO DO IN THE AREA
- Visit Linwood Cemetery and Doc Holliday Memorial – find the trailhead on 12th St. and Bennet Avenue and take the short but steep hike up to see the final resting place for notorious characters like Doc Holliday and Kid Curry. A beautiful area with views of the town in the valley below.
- Hike Hanging Lake Trail – This popular trail was closed for repairs during our recent visit. The 1.2 mile, rocky trail, leads to bridges, waterfalls, towering canyon walls, and lake views that will blow your mind. Because it’s such a popular trail, you will need to book an online reservation before your hike. Bike rentals are available in town, if you prefer a ride to the trailhead.
- Two Rivers Park – Walk or bike the paved trails in this park, where the Colorado River meets up with the Roaring Fork River. Plenty of park benches and trees offering shady spots to relax, enjoy the views, and have a picnic.
- Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park – For some serious fun and entertainment, head over to the Adventure Park for a scenic gondola ride, a Fairy Cave tour, or a wild ride on the Cliffhanger Roller Coaster! Grab a meal in the foodcourt or pack a lunch to bring with you.
- Glenwood Springs Hot Springs – Purchase a day pass to float in largest hot springs pool in the world. The main pool is over 405 feet long and 100 feet wide, and has an area for lap-swimmers and diving. The kids area includes a shallow pool, waterfall, and water slide. Day passes are $46-$50 for adults and around $30 for children.
- Winter Activities at Sunlight Mountain Resort – This hometown resort is only a 15-minute drive from Glenwood Springs and offers more affordable lift tickets than other major ski areas in Aspen and Vail.
Imagine a day spent playing in the snow, followed by an evening soak in Glenwood Hot Springs, before turning in for the night.
CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR ROUTE – GLENWOOD SPRINGS TO SALT LAKE CITY
When it was time for our departure, we headed over to the Glenwood Springs Station. We walked down the beautiful staircase leading to the vintage ticket office and waiting areas and felt like we’d stepped back in time. Built by the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad in 1904, this depot was built in Romanesque Revival Style to blend with the style of the Hotel Colorado across the river. The Glenwood Springs Railroad Museum is located inside the station, in what used to be the waiting room for women and children.
Fitting with the old-fashioned vibe, the station attendant entered the lobby to provide passengers with information on the train’s arrival and where to board. After the train arrived, we were greeted at our boarding location by the conductor. They provided our coach car seat assignments and directed towards our car and seats. It was, perhaps, one of the most easy-going boarding experiences in all of our years of travel.
We settled into our seats and departed promptly at 2:43 pm. We listened to the conductors announcements, before heading down to grab a few drinks and snacks from the Cafe Car. We hunkered back down in in our cozy seats, where we admired the gorgeous scenery along the Colorado River.
Our first stop, was a 10-minute fresh air break in Grand Junction, Colorado. Unfortunately, this lovely old train depot was closed for renovations but a good spot to stretch our legs for a minute before getting back on the train. The station had a small store open where you could buy toiletries, medicine, snacks, and drinks that you may not find on the train.
The river views and rocky landscapes became more dramatic as the sun began making it’s descent. The left side of the train offered the best views of the river, with expansive rock formations in the backdrop. As we were seated on the right, we found ourselves taking a brief opportunities to snap photos from any open seats on the left side.
Announcements for dinner reservations began – sleeper car passengers would have first priority, and reservations from coach passengers would be taken next. Reminders were given about community seating, meaning you will most likely be seated with other passengers, unless you have a party of 4. Reminders were given to wait for the dining car attendant to seat you when you arrive for your scheduled time.
We decided to purchase a burger and turkey sandwich from the Cafe Car and dine in our seats, that evening. Shortly after dinner, we leaned our seats back to catch some sleep. The car was surprisingly quiet as other passengers seemed to have the same idea. The seats are certainly more spacious and comfortable than you’d find on an airplane. I was able to block out any light by pulling my knit cap down over my eyes, but found myself regretting that I hadn’t packed my neck pillow or travel blanket for the ride.
We arrived in Salt Lake City shortly after 10 pm, about an 8.5 hour journey overall. We had to walk a short distance to a car turnaround where were met by our Uber driver. All in all this was a wonderful train experience. The dramatic scenery along this part of the California Zephyr route was stunning.  Our visit to the historic town of Glenwood Springs, left us dreaming about a return trip. Perhaps a winter train ride and ski trip to Glenwood Springs will be next on our list!
We’d love to hear your questions or any tips you have to share! Comment below!
