Train Journey to Glenwood Springs, Colorado - Things to Do and Where to Stay

Nestled in the Rocky Mountains, where two rivers converge, is the town of Glenwood Springs, Colorado. This town is rich in history and is famous for having the world’s largest hot springs pool. The legends surrounding its healing waters have attracted explorers and health seekers from around the globe. Originally called “Defiance,” the town was established in 1883 and consisted of tents, rustic cabins, brothels, and saloons. It was a popular getaway for notorious figures like Doc Holliday and Kid Curry, buried in the local cemetery.

In addition to its scenic location and rich history, Glenwood Springs serves as a stopover on one of the most beautiful train routes in America. The Amtrak California Zephyr travels from Chicago to San Francisco, with notable stops in major cities such as Denver, Salt Lake City, Reno, and Sacramento. Glenwood Springs is an ideal stop along this journey. In this guide, we will share details about our experience on the Zephyr and provide tips for planning a stopover in the charming town of Glenwood Springs.

Boarding the Train at Denver’s Union Station

We arrived at Denver Union Station an hour before our train was set to board, allowing us to explore this historic landmark, which opened in 1881. The bright and spacious interior boasts plenty of seating, shops, and restaurants, including a trendy bar called “Terminal Bar” in an old ticketing office. The exterior features stunning Beaux-Arts architecture and an open-air train hall. I could have taken photos all day, but we had a train to catch!

We spent a few minutes looking for Track 4, which turned out to be on the main level, right across from the station. There was a sign for the boarding line where they scanned our tickets and pointed us towards our coach-class car. The conductor greeted us at the door, checked our tickets, and showed us to our seats on the upper level. We put our suitcases on the lower-level rack and took our backpacks to stash above our seats.

Onboard the Scenic California Zephyr Route

After we boarded the train, we headed straight for a table in the Observation Car, also known as the Sightseer Lounge. Those seats fill up fast, so it’s a good idea to snag one early. The train rolled out right on time at 8:46 AM.

The Conductor kicked things off with some announcements, laying out a few basic rules to keep everyone’s trip enjoyable. He made sure to mention that kids need to stay with their adults, that everyone should keep their shoes on in public spaces, and, of course, to “be kind and courteous” to one another.

Not long after that, the Assistant Conductor popped into the Observation Car to let everyone know they needed to return to their assigned seats in two hours. This way, everyone gets a turn to enjoy the views. It’s a pretty cool move! Since this route is one of the most scenic in the country, it makes sense that everyone should have a chance to soak in the beautiful scenery from the prime spot on the train.

Before long, the Denver skyline was just a faint outline in the distance as we left the suburbs behind and entered the vast alpine tundra. Our journey took us to the Rockies, where we rolled through many long tunnels. The scenery became wilder and more rugged as we wound through canyons and rocky hillsides. With the sun shining bright, everyone in the Observation Car was in a chill mood.

After two hours on board, we followed our Assistant Conductor’s instructions and returned to our seats. We were seated on the right side of the train, mostly with views of steep rock walls outside the windows. Passengers on the left side of the car, however, enjoyed gorgeous views of the Colorado River. I decided to grab my camera and wander downstairs to take a few photos from the train door window as we traveled alongside the river.

The train rolled by groups of river rafters, and a few of them followed the tradition of dropping their pants and mooning the train as we zoomed past. Passengers couldn’t help but giggle and whip out their phones to snap pictures and record videos of the funny sight outside their windows.

As we approached, the conductor announced critical historical locations and narrated the history of tunnels, Donner Pass, and Glenwood Canyon. He also pointed out a small rustic cabin where Dwight D. Eisenhower spent summers with his family.

Arriving at Glenwood Springs Station

We arrived at the Glenwood Springs train station at approximately 2:36 PM, which was a timely arrival. Since our hotel check-in wasn’t until 4 PM, we left our bags with the front desk and headed to the Glenwood Brew Pub for a bite and a beer.

Where to Stay in Glenwood Springs

Hotel Maxwell Anderson – During our visit, we stayed at Hotel Maxwell Anderson, a historic hotel near the train station and local dining. We accidentally booked a “gallery room,” which required walking outside to access another hallway. The room faced the road, so we kept the curtains drawn for privacy. While clean and comfortable, we’ll choose a room inside the main hotel next time.

Hotel Colorado—Hotel Colorado is a great lodging option. It is five minutes from the train station, just across a pedestrian footbridge. The Glenwood Hot Springs pools are directly across the street. Even if you’re not staying, it’s worth visiting this beautiful hotel, which features historic photos and elegant vintage décor. Notable guests include Teddy Roosevelt, William Taft, and the “Unsinkable” Molly Brown.

Glenwood Hot Springs Resort – This resort features the world’s largest hot springs pool. While the nightly rates are higher, they include complimentary access to various resort amenities, such as the hot springs pools, a daily full hot breakfast, and the Poolside Grill and Athletic Club. It’s also a historic location, making it an excellent choice for anyone seeking an authentic resort experience.

Where to Eat and Drink in Glenwood Springs

Riviera Supper Club and Scratch Kitchen—This place serves an eclectic mix of food, including salmon, duck, Beef Wellington, and Lasagna, as well as various beers, wine, and mixed drinks. It‘s perfect if you’re looking for something unique to eat!
The Pullman—This restaurant offers a unique mix of food choices, including Roasted Chicken, Braised Pulled Pork, and yummy macaroni and cheese. It also has a fun selection of cocktails, a cozy ambiance, and excellent service. It fills up fast, so you’ll want to make a reservation.
Grind—This restaurant has a relaxed atmosphere and great seating options inside and out. The menu includes delicious burgers, fries, and beer cheese dip. Visitors can also order milkshakes or a beverage from the varied selection of beers and cocktails to accompany their meal.

Doc Holliday’s Saloon and Restaurant—The saloon has a classic old western vibe, good service, and typical bar food, including unique Rocky Mountain Oysters. When we visited, locals were gathered to cheer on their football teams. I imagine it’s more family-friendly earlier in the day. Overall, it was a great spot to unwind with a beer after my somber visit to Doc Holliday’s Memorial at Linwood Cemetery.

Things to do in Glenwood Springs

Visit Linwood Cemetery and Doc Holliday Memorial – This trailhead is at the intersection of 12th Street and Bennett Avenue. The hike is short but steep, leading you to the final resting place of infamous figures such as Doc Holliday and Kid Curry. The area offers beautiful views of the town in the valley below.
Hike Hanging Lake Trail – This popular trail was closed for repairs during our recent visit. The 1.2-mile rocky trail features stunning bridges, waterfalls, towering canyon walls, and breathtaking lake views. Due to its popularity, you must make an online reservation before hiking. If you prefer to ride to the trailhead, bike rentals are available in town.

Two Rivers Park – Walk or bike along the paved trails in this park, where the Colorado River meets the Roaring Fork River. Plenty of park benches and trees offer shady spots to relax, enjoy the views, and picnic.
Glenwood Caverns Adventure Park – For serious fun and entertainment, head to the Adventure Park for a scenic gondola ride, a Fairy Cave tour, or a wild ride on the Cliffhanger Roller Coaster! Grab a meal in the food court or pack a lunch to bring with you.
Glenwood Springs Hot Springs – Get a day pass to enjoy the largest hot springs pool in the world, which is over 405 feet long and 100 feet wide. It features areas for lap swimming and diving and a kids’ section with a shallow pool, waterfall, and water slide. Day passes cost $46 to $50 for adults and around $30 for children.
Winter Activities at Sunlight Mountain Resort – This local resort is just a 15-minute drive from Glenwood Springs and offers more affordable lift tickets than Aspen and Vail’s major ski areas.

Picture a day spent playing in the snow, followed by an evening soak in the Glenwood Hot Springs, before you turn in for the night.

California Zephyr Route – Glenwood Springs to Salt Lake City

As we prepared for our departure, we headed to the Glenwood Springs Station. Walking down the beautiful staircase to the vintage ticket office and waiting areas felt like stepping back in time. Built in 1904 by the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad in Romanesque Revival style, the depot complements the Hotel Colorado across the river. Inside, you’ll find the Glenwood Springs Railroad Museum in the former waiting room for women and children.

Fitting with the old-fashioned vibe, the station attendant entered the lobby to inform passengers of the train’s arrival and where to board. After the train arrived, the conductor greeted us at our boarding location. They assigned our coach car seat assignments and directed us to our car and seats. It was one of the easiest-going boarding experiences in our years of travel.

We settled into our seats and departed promptly at 2:43 PM. After listening to the conductor’s announcements, we headed down to the cafe car to grab a few drinks and snacks. Once we returned to our cozy seats, we admired the gorgeous scenery along the Colorado River.

Our first stop was a 10-minute break for fresh air in Grand Junction, Colorado. Unfortunately, the lovely old train depot was closed for renovations, but it was a nice place to stretch our legs before getting back on the train. The station did have a small store open where we could purchase toiletries, medicine, snacks, and drinks that might not be available on the train. However, we didn’t want to stand in the long line and risk missing the train departure!

The river views and rocky landscapes became more dramatic as the sun set. The left side of the train had the best views, but since we were seated on the right, we took opportunities to snap photos from open seats on the left.

Dinner reservations were announced, with sleeper car passengers given priority, and coach passengers served afterward. Most would be seated with others unless in a party of four, and reminders were given to wait for the dining car attendant to direct folks to a table.

We opted for a burger and turkey sandwich from the Cafe Car and enjoyed our meal in our seats. Afterward, we leaned back to sleep in the surprisingly quiet and spacious car, though I wished I had packed a neck pillow or travel blanket.

We arrived in Salt Lake City shortly after 10 PM, completing our 8.5-hour journey. We met our scheduled Uber driver in a cul-de-sac, just a short walk from where the train dropped off passengers. Overall, it was a fantastic train experience, filled with stunning scenery along the California Zephyr route. Our visit to Glenwood Springs left us dreaming of a winter train and ski trip there!