The Amtrak Empire Builder is a popular train journey that follows a large portion of the Lewis and Clark trail through northern parts of the United States. The route between the West Coast and Montana’s Rocky Mountains is a feast for the eyes, offering especially scenic views during fall season. In this post, we’ll share our experience aboard this train from Seattle to East Glacier, Montana. We hope the information is helpful as you plan your next train adventure.
BOARDING THE TRAIN – DAY 1
We boarded our train at Seattle’s King Street Station, where we were directed towards our assigned roomette. This was our first time on an overnight train, and we were eager to check out our accommodations. I think most people share our experience of initial surprise by the small size of roomette accommodations.Â
We quickly realized the importance of stowing our larger carryon luggage in the downstairs rack, and packing everything we needed for the night into our backpacks and smaller carryons. Once we had things organized, we were able to settle in quite comfortably. Our Roomette was on the right side of the train, so we weren’t able to witness Puget Sound views on this trip. We still enjoyed passing by urban homes and cityscapes as we made our way North.
By dinner time, the train was heading east and scenery transitioned to tree-lined tracks through the Cascade Mountains. We enjoyed our meals and meeting fellow passengers in the dining car, before returning to find the top bunk pulled down and our beds made. It seemed a perfect time to kick back with an adult beverage in hand while the train chugged along in the darkness.
When we were ready for bed, I climbed up awkwardly into the small top bunk. There were a few steps, but I still felt like I had to hoist myself up and wondered how less agile folks manage. Chris was able to settle in comfortably below with his CPAP machine all hooked up. I tossed and turned a bit trying to get comfy. I eventually found myself lulled to sleep by the sounds and rhythms of the train.
We woke the next morning to misty views of the rugged Montana wilderness. The train rolled along the southern perimeter of Glacier National Park, with views of the Flathead River and National Forest. We briefly contemplated making our way to the observation car to take in the views. We agreed, however, that we were perfectly content enjoying the breathtaking scenery from the quiet of our little roomette. Once again, we decided to have breakfast and coffee in our cozy little space.
ARRIVING AT EAST GLACIER STATION
Later that morning, we arrived in the little town of East Glacier. As we checked in for our motel, we were informed that nearly all services, restaurants, and lodging had shut down on September 24th (the week prior to our arrival). This explained why we were unable to book accommodations at the Glacier Park Lodge lodge as we’d hoped. No big deal. We were perfectly happy in our quaint little motel at the center of this sleepy town and found plenty to keep us occupied during our short overnight stay.
LODGING ACCOMMODATIONS IN EAST GLACIER
- Glacier Park Lodge – An easy walk from the Amtrak Station, The Glacier Park Lodge was built in 1913 and has all rustic charm you can expect from a park lodge. You won’t find a television in your room, but will find yourself drawn out into the stunning park grounds where you can relax and enjoy the majestic mountain scenery.
- The Whistling Swan Motel – A perfect home base for our visit to East Glacier, The Whistling Swan Motel room was spacious, clean, and cozy. We had a television in our room, allowing us to watch football games while we waited for updates on our delayed train. The location was a convenient walk to the few services that were open in town.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK IN EAST GLACIER
- Two Medicine Grill – The only restaurant that was open the entirety of our stay, Two Medicine Grill was clearly had friendly staff and served hearty breakfasts of pancakes, bacon, and eggs and lunch offerings of burgers and sandwiches.
- The Peak Casino and Restaurant – Only open on the first day of our stay, The Peak Casino and Restaurant served up draft beers to guzzle down with our pizza and bison burger. The food was good, and the atmosphere was lively, considering how quiet the town was during our visit.
- East Glacier Stageline Pizza – Closed during our stay, East Glacier Stageline Pizza would definitely be another one to add to your list of places to dine. They offer a large variety of pizza, calzone, and cheesy breadstick options with a huckleberry sweet tea or lemonade to wash it down.
THINGS TO DO AROUND EAST GLACIER
- Shuttle Service to Going to the Sun Road – Shuttle services are available from July 1 through mid-September. If you’re visiting during this time and want to tour the park and hit the hiking trails, you can catch the Eastside Shuttle from Glacier Park Lodge to Two Medicine Valley and St. Mary’s areas. From there you, can connect to the National Park Service Shuttle on the Going to the Sun Road.
- Book a boat tour with Glacier Park Boat Company – Two Medicine Relax and take in the mountain and lake views from a vintage wooden boat, while hearing about the history of the Blackfeet tribe in the surrounding area. There’s a 1.8 mile guided or self-guided hikes to Twin Falls Waterfall. Be aware that if you are on a tour later in the day and opt for a self-guided hike, you may not make it back in time for the last returning boat. You will need to walk the 3.5 miles back to the parking lot. Two Medicine also offers kayaks, canoes, rowboats, and motorboats for rent
- Shop for souvenirs and other goods at Glacier Park Trading Company –Â Built in 1910, this general store offers a variety of goods including deli meats and cheeses, locally written books, and a wide variety of beer, wine, and ciders. Staff were friendly and helpful with answering questions we had about the town and surrounding areas.
TRAIN DELAYS – DAY 3
As we were preparing to check out of our motel, we received notification that our train ride home was delayed by four hours. Since the Amtrak Station lobby was closed, we ended up paying for another night at our motel. We grabbed sandwiches and beers from Glacier Park Trading Company and sat in our cozy room watching football until we received an update confirming our train’s arrival.
We stood outside the dark station, staring up at the bright starry skies, while we waited for our train to arrive. Once we boarded, we breathed a sigh of relief knowing we had the privacy and comfort a roomette for the long ride home.
A ROOM WITH A VIEW – DAY 4
When we awoke the next morning, we realized the train delays allowed us to experience completely different scenery than our views traveling Eastward. We loved riding through Eastern Washington during daylight hours. A unique landscape of rocky scablands, wheat fields, vineyards, and expansive views of the Columbia River. We opted again for breakfast in our room, where we could take our time eating, and pondering the beautiful views in silence.
After our quiet morning, we decided to join the other passengers for lunch in the dining car. This experience is always enjoyable, allowing us to meet new friends, and swap travel tales with people from all over. We continued to watch the landscape change as we traveled through Wenatchee and Leavenworth up into the mountains, where we passed through tunnels, forests, and alongside rivers.
TAKEWAWAYS
We had no regrets and felt like we’d accomplished our goals of experiencing an overnight train route, relaxing, and enjoying the fall scenery along the way. We know train delays can occur for many reasons. This is particularly true for trains West of the Mississippi where there are fewer trains in general. The key is to make sure not to plan for train travel to a time-sensitive destination or event.
Amtrak’s Customer Service team will sometimes reach out to customers impacted by delays and offer compensation in the form of transportation vouchers, Guest Rewards points, and/or refunds for affected portion of trip. We’ve found that they are open to hearing about customer experiences and will work with them to compensate for significant delays and inconveniences experienced during travel.
Overall, the great joy of train travel is the experience along the journey. Approach it with a sense of wonder and adventure, knowing there may be delays or unexpected incidents. This allows you to focus more on the positive aspects of train travel. A full description of the advantages of train travel will require a whole new post. A few of our favorite things include: the ease of boarding, getting to know your fellow passengers and train crew, and lazy mornings of coffee and breakfast as you watch the world go by. All that incredible scenery, you take in along the way, is just the icing on the cake.
