A trip to Norway seemed like a perfect opportunity to experience stunning natural scenery, the famous fjords, and the rich Viking history. We’d planned to travel to Norway during wintertime, with the goals to avoid crowds and possibly catch a glimpse of the famed Northern Lights. While doing our trip-planning research, we were thrilled to discover that Norway is home to one of the most scenic railways in the world. According to Lonely Planet, the Flåm Railway (Flåmsbana) is the world’s most beautiful train journey. While we never did spot any Northern Lights during our visit, we were beyond dazzled by our journey on the Flåm Railway and through the snow-covered Norwegian countryside. In this post, you’ll find a detailed description of our train travel experiences and overnight stay in the charming village of Flåm.
Journey Onboard the Bergen Railway to Myrdal
Getting to the remote village of Flåm is relatively easy. And in our opinion, the train is the best way to go. You can choose to take the Bergen Railway (Bergenbanen) from the cities of Oslo or Bergen to connect with the Flåm Railway at Myrdal Station. We started our journey in Oslo, the capital and largest city in Norway. From there, we’d booked tickets to board the morning train from Oslo to Myrdal.
We arrived at the Oslo Central Station about 45 minutes before our 8:25 a.m. departure time. We found minimal seating available in the station but were able to snag a few seats in a cafe where we ordered coffees and kept an eye on departure boards. We checked departure screens to confirm which track our train would be arriving on and found the overall boarding process to be quick and easy.
Our business class seats cost about $11 extra per ticket and offered complementary coffee and tea service, slightly wider seats, and a little more legroom. We decided we would have been just as comfortable riding in economy class and didn’t find it worth the extra money for business class seating. This is most likely a better option for commuters and folks who plan to work on a computer and desire a little extra room to do so.
During the first hour, the train passed through Oslo’s cityscapes and suburbs. The rainy weather slowly shifted to large flakes of snow. The scenery became more dramatic as we traveled into the snow-covered Norwegian highlands, eventually crossing through Hallingskarvet National Park. We chugged along past several ski areas, climbing higher into the rugged mountain landscape.
A stop at the Finse station brought us to the highest point of the entire Norwegian railway system. This land of snow and ice is often described as a miniature Antarctica, serving as a training ground for famous adventurers and explorers. Polar explorers Fridtjof Nansen, Robert F. Scott, and Sir Ernest Shackleton trained at Finse before embarking on their expeditions.
The magnificent views along the Bergen Railway took us by surprise. We’d initially viewed this leg of the journey as a means to get to the famed Bergen Railway. We were pleasantly surprised by the magical winter scenery on our way to Myrdal. We were so busy admiring the lovely scenes outside our windows that we remained glued to our seats the entire 5-hour ride to Myrdal.
Boarding the Flam Railway at the Myrdal Station
We arrived at the Myrdal station, eager to board the famed Flåm Railway. Seats, bathrooms, and a vending machine were the only amenities available at this tiny station. The station has a small cafe and gift shop, however, that are open during warmer months.
There was minimal waiting time between trains, and train staff were there to greet us upon arrival. Seats on this train are first come, first served. We had no problem finding seats, as there were only 3 other families in the train car with us. Stepping onto this train felt like stepping back to an earlier time of train travel. The train had such a cool vintage feel with its wooden walls, huge windows, and bronze trim.
This train ride is magnificent for many reasons. In addition to being one of the most scenic railways, Flåm Railway is also one of the steepest rail journeys in the world. Most of the route runs on a 5.5% gradient, from mountains to valley floor. It’s considered a massive engineering feat and took nearly 17 years to build. This project included 20 tunnels, most of which were dug by hand into the mountainside.
About ten minutes into our journey, the conductor announced a brief stop at the famous Kjosfossen Falls. At this stop, passengers were encouraged to disembark for a 5-minute photo opportunity on the viewing platform. During warmer months, the waterfall tumbles 225 meters down the rocky hillsides. During our winter visit, the falls were one massive ice sculpture. The conductor shared some local folklore, including sightings of a forest spirit who dances near the falls during warmer months.
Our journey continued, passing through tunnel after tunnel and waterfall after waterfall. As we descended into the valley, colorful homes and cottages could be seen nestled in the green valley floor. Eventually, the Flåm River and the picturesque village of Flåm made an appearance. The train ride from Myrdal station to Flåm took one hour, and time flew by. We took turns pulling down windows to breathe in the fresh mountain air and snap photos along the way.
Arriving in the Charming City of Flam
We stepped off the train in Flåm, where we were greeted by a snow-globe perfect scene. This charming village is tucked between two mountains at the head of Aurlandfjord. The current population is around 400 inhabitants, however, it’s estimated that Flåm receives around 1.4 million visitors a year. The village is a travel hub for the Sognefjord and Norway in a Nutshell tours, connecting the Flåm Railway to the UNESCO world heritage Nærøyfjord.
We’d planned our visit to Norway in mid-February, when average daily temperatures were in the mid to high twenty degrees Fahrenheit, with flurries of snow and rain in some areas. We recommend packing for both winter and rainy weather. We’d packed warm coats, thermal-lined pants, and waterproof boots and were able to explore the area quite comfortably. February was a perfect time for visiting, as daylight hours were increasing, allowing about 9 hours a day for exploring.
Where to Stay in Flam
- Flåmsbrygga Hotel – Cozy and clean hotel in the heart of the village. We loved having a balcony where you could take in the peaceful Fjord views and enjoyed the excellent breakfast served on the property. It was a bonus having the Viking-inspired Ægir Brewpub right next door!
- Freithem Hotel – Clean room and hotel with fjord and mountain views. A breakfast buffet is offered, as well as dinner options. Beautiful walking trails are located in Fretheim Cultural Park, behind the hotel.
- Flåm Marina and Apartments – If you need a little more space for you family, you may want to book an apartment at the Flåm Marina. Rooms are noted to be spacious and comfortable with stunning water views and offer a little more space than other lodging options. There is also a restaurant on-site with incredible fjord views.
- Flåm Hostel – A campground and hostel with basic and clean rooms with private or shared bathrooms and a short distance to the train station.
Where to Eat and Drink in Flam
- Ægir Brewpub – The Brewpub is part of Flåmsbrygga Hotel. The building is inspired by Norse Mythology and spectacular on the inside and out. We could have hung out all day on the fur-covered chairs, cozying up by the huge fireplace. The Brewery offers excellent craft beer options. On the top floor, there’s a fancy but comfortable restaurant serving Norwegian Food with a modern twist.
- Arven Restaurant- A restaurant located in the Fretheim Hotel, offering buffet-style foods and incredible views.
- Flåm Marina Terrace Restaurant – Seafood, burgers, soup, and vegetarian options in a perfect location overlooking the beautiful harbor.
- Flåm Bakery – A busy bakery right next to the train station. The bakery serves sourdough breads, cinnamon knots, and other Norwegian treats. They also have a selection of pizza and sandwiches if you’re in the mood for something a little less sweet.
10 Fun Things to Do in Flam
- Memories From Flåm – A large shopping center offering everything from warm clothing, hand-crafted souvenirs, and a wide variety of gift items. We loved the cute troll figurines and magnets.
- Flåm Railway Museum – Next to the shopping center, you’ll find the Railway Museum, where you can learn more about the fascinating history and challenging construction of the Flam Railway.
- Flåm Visitor Center – The visitor center is a perfect spot to gather information about the area and what to do. The staff will answer questions, provide brochures, and help you book fjord cruises, train rides, guided hiking tours, zip-lining, and other excursions.
- Fjord cruise– The Flåm Fjord cruise is a 2-hour journey through the Nærøyfjord, one of only two UNESCO World Heritage Site fjords. The boat tour ends at Gudvangen, where you can take a shuttle bus back to Flåm. You may also opt to make a return trip on the ship. The shuttle ride is 20 minutes versus another 2-hour ride in the ship.
- Stegastein Viewpoint – A huge viewing platform that offers visitors panoramic fjord views and the illusion of floating above the fjord. The viewpoint is open year-round, with intermittent winter closures. This is one of the most popular tourist locations and a highly photographed spot. Plan for crowds or try to avoid peak daytime hours during the summer months. You can opt to hike or take a bus or taxi to the viewpoint.
- Flåm Beach – We spent a good part of our day wandering around this little slice of paradise and admiring the breathtaking views. During warmer months, you can rent kayaks and explore the fjords.
- Fretheim Cultural Park – Located behind the Fretheim Hotel, you can wander the scenic paths through the hills and past several interesting art formations. It’s a beautiful location for viewing Christmas lights and decorations in the winter months.
- Flåm Bike Rental – During warmer seasons, you may opt to rent bikes to explore the beautiful surrounding areas. Shop staff can provide a map of the area and recommend rides based on your group’s abilities and goals.
- Stave Church – It’s About a 3-mile walk from the train station along the railway to Old Flåm. You’ll find this beautiful. The well-maintained church was built in 1670 and is worth a visit.
- Fjord Sauna – This fjord-side sauna can be booked for an hour-and-a-half or two-hour session – either private or shared. A perfect way to wind down after a day of adventuring!
The Train Journey from Flam to Bergen
Upon our departure from Flåm, we’d planned to head to the city of Bergen on Norway’s southwestern coast. We’d booked the returning leg from Flåm to Myrdal with a connecting train on the Bergen Railway from Myrdal to Bergen. As we awaited the arrival of our 11:45 a.m. train, we enjoyed coffee and pastries at the Flåm Bakery. The sun was shining, and the scenery appeared even more dramatic with bright blue skies in the background. We boarded the train and discovered we had our train car entirely to ourselves. The train made its ascent through the mountainous valleys, and we took advantage of empty seats, jumping from one side of the train to the other.
We arrived at the unmanned Myrdal station and found that our train to Bergen was delayed by about 45 minutes. I couldn’t help but wonder what it might be like to be stranded at this small, remote station for a longer period. Fortunately for us, the delays were short, and the scenery was incredible.
We boarded our Bergen Railway train and were directed to our seats in the Economy Class car. It was a relatively uneventful ride to the Bergen Station. The total ride from Myrdal to Bergen was just under two hours.
Tips for a Pleasant Train Travel Experience
- If you want to plan a winter trip, late February is a good time to go when daylight hours are longer and crowds are minimal.
- We recommend booking your trains directly through Vy for the best prices. You can download the Vy App for easy access to your booking details.
- Book Train tickets as early as you can. Ticket sales are available as early as 90 days in advance.
- Dress for the weather. Plan for layers and waterproof boots in the winter and pack a rain jacket with you, as weather can quickly change to rain anytime of the year.
Norway in a Nutshell Tour
If you prefer an organized train and fjord tours, the Norway in a Nutshell tour is a popular option. You can customize your trip, depending on where you will depart from. A good option if you prefer tours and don’t mind paying a little extra to have the trip, including bus rides, coordinated for you. The tour is extremely popular but does get mixed reviews. Do your research first before deciding if this is the best option for you.
Takeaway
Our train rides to and from Flåm were the absolute highlight of our visit to Norway. Traveling to Flåm during the winter-time allowed us to avoid crowds and enjoy peace and solitude in parts of Norway that are huge tourist attractions in warmer weather. The Flåm and Bergen Railways provided a relaxed travel experience through remote parts of the countryside, with some of the best scenery we’ve experienced on any train. It was truly an unforgettable experience.
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